A trudge on the time-worn routes of Bara and Chota Bhangal taxes one physically; although, at the same time it rewards the journeying soul with jaw dropping landscapes, bleak unique outposts and sense of timelessness. River Ravi, originating at the foot of Bara Bhangal village kept nurturing the valley’s life from time immemorial. For thousands of years, the dodgy, perilous routes from here to central Asia crossed over the massive Dhaula dhar and Pirpanjal mountain ranges, enabling the region’s trade and cultural exchange. Bara Bhangal with its population of over 750 is an important centre for the Gaddi shepherds. Till today, ponies are used to carry ration for the villagers from across the passes that connect the valley to rest of the world. A satellite phone for emergency purpose, installed by government is the sold mode of communication for the villagers. The obscurity and difficult approach has cast a veil of mystery and fancy in the minds of romanticists, about Bara Bhangal. It is about time that we explore the region in some meaningful detail.
explore
DZONGU – North Sikkim
The electoral district of Dzongu in remote North Sikkim is inhabited by the indigenous Lepcha people. It’s geographic boundary to the west is marked by Talung(7350 m) and Pandim(6691 m) peaks. To the north by mt. Kangchenzonga South(8476 m), mt. Zemu peak(7780 m), Zemu Gap(5870 m) , mt. Simvu(6811 m) , mt. Sinioulchu(6888 m) , Kishong la pass(4785 m) and mt. Lamo Angdong(5900 m). To the east by Teesta river and to the south by Narsingh(5800 m) group of peaks. The valley constitutes the remotest reaches of the rich and varied Kanchenjonga Biosphere Reserve, an UNESCO world heritage site.
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- The massive wall of ice and rock defining the northern boundery of Dzongu
Lepcha villages are thinly populated, always quiet ,and often wrapped up in a lively green cloak of vegetation. They worship nature whose care and protection are integral part of their philosophy. Many Lepcha has worked in fields of Butterflying, Birding etc ; Experts on Rhododendrons, master of bush craft can be found in these villages.
In this article I shall narrate only the nature and geographic setting of Dzongu valley, and touch upon the prospect of trekking.
thumb rules of High Altitude trekking
Rules to follow for acclimatization :-
Acclimatization is simply a procedure to improve lung capacity. How efficiently body absorbs oxygen beyond 9000 feet , determines how well the person is acclimatised.
Arunachal, Gorichen basecamp
Arunachal is a state that yields curiosity and expectation. Many of us know that it has largely unspoilt eco-regions, unparalleled biodiversity and untouched mountainous terrain ; all of which is true. The thing is , we are very fortunate that a region like Arunachal “still” exists in a country of a billion , and we need to protect the region. Let us not spoil it , let us explore.
We Love Our Rhododendron ~ Lets Know Them Too ~ Focus Indian Himalaya
Walking through a Himalayan Nature Park we often come across with Rhododendron species. Many we know – Many we don’t. But No matter what , when they Bloom they set the forest on fire.
For city dwellers the view of a Rhododendron Burst can be enchanting but it may leave a huge impression on you. Personally when I traveled Kanchenjunga Wildlife Sanctuary in Spring time , The Forest made me insane. It was an unforgettable place which I could not Forget and it haunts my soul till date. Read more
Hidden lake Maldaru
Maldaru tal is a pristine glacial lake that remains frozen half the year, stays hidden by the mountains. It lies in the shadow of connecting ridges between Singtur range and Ruinsara range, at an altitude of 13500 feet. It can be approached via Debsu bugiyal above Seema village in Supin valley of Uttarkashi district, Garhwal.
Shila-samudra , a garden of eden, hidden by Trishul & Nanda-ghunti
Recently we’ve been revisiting memories of some our favorite treks in Garhwal. Roopkund-Junargali-Homkund is one such trek. It was 2009 June, when 5 of us hiked this bewitchingly beautiful trek. Shila-samudra , a garden of eden, hidden by Trishul & Nanda-ghunti was the place who astonished me most, Here are some photos from that adventure. Read more
The Smoke Circuit – Goecha La diaries (Mangtabung to Yuksom via Tashiding road and back to Mangtabung)
Warning: Cigarette smoking is injurious to health, especially if you want to climb many a mountain in your life.
Cigarettes while hiking are a strict ‘no no’; but tell that to the average Bengali smoker and see him hike away from you to the next mountain paying minimum heed. Read more
Purbasthali Oxbow Lake – Birding Diaries – Trip Report
Ten of us decided to cool off a bit after epic wedding celebrations of Kabya and Roopdatta during the first week of February 2017. The plan was made hastily but executed with precision.
Onset of our boat journey
The Plan:
Birding on fishing boats on the Ox-bow Lake at Chupi/Purbasthali (Burdwan, West Bengal). This 11 kms long lake in the shape of an Ox-bow has been the winter and permanent homes of thousands of ducks, waders and other birds from time immemorial, i suppose.
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Pilgrim on the mountain, KangYatse 2
This post is a part of a three chapter series on my experience summiting Stok Kangri,6153m and Kang Yatse 6200m in two fortunate weeks of July in 2016. I’ve never been laconic with my blog posts but unless you’re hooked on to Pokemon Go, you should be alright.
Zero – Training for a 6000er
One – Stok Kangri
Two – Kang Yatse 2 – You are reading.
“We are approaching 6000m”, announces Sharki Sherpa, as we make a steep 60 degree, but shorter detour to the summit ridge that starts at about 6100m. The detour took us up a 100m in a short, exhausting push. Both Jan and I were feeling alright and very excited about the prospect of being on top on KangYatse 2 on the day. All seemed to be going well when our sherpa stopped sharp. We followed closer and came to a halt at an icy blue and endless crack of the bergschrund staring at us right in the face and it spanned the entire width of the north east face we were climbing.The summit was the least of my concerns at that point, it was more like,
” F— this. How do we get out of this mess?” Read more
How to combat cold in Himalayan treks? The concept of layering clothes
How to combat cold in Himalayan treks? OR how to combat the extreme cold like Chadar trek? The one and only answer is the concept of layering clothes. There can’t be any single Jacket from any brand to protect you from cold of -25 C, what a winter Himalayan trek like Chadar offers. And if there is any such from a brand like North Face, then definitely that will cost more than your trip Or if it is cheap then you will end up adding the heaviest item into the backpack. Read more
How to choose a trekking company?
How to choose a trekking company? Yes, it is difficult to choose one among many. So, here I am trying to develop an approach to compare. There are many companies operating for every trek. In the case of planning your trek and choosing an operator, you may consider few points; which will help you to identify a company with good facilities and sincere responsibilities. Read more
How To Prepare for a trek, The Physical Endurance
How To Prepare for a trek, The Physical Endurance is the 2nd Chapter of the article. Please read chapter 1 of the article titled To Prepare for a trek, The Mental Endurance.
To prepare for a trek, we need to strengthen our 2 prime M’s – Mind and Muscle, the body. Only then, the spending of the 3rd M – Money; a little or more, can bring to us an intense lifelong experience like trekking. Read more
Grey headed flying squirrel Khangchendzonga National Park, Sikkim
It was early November, 2016. I was going up the enthralling trails through Khangchendzonga National Park, to Goecha La. Our guide Sanjay had already taken notice of my keen interest in wildlife. So, when I reached Phedang (3636 m), leading the last of the trekkers from the batch of 8 first timers on the 3rd day of the trek, he ran up to me and told me to follow him. I was left with no doubt that he had made an interesting wild observation and followed him. It was a Grey headed flying squirrel. I was not to know that for sometime still, and also the fact that it was an elusive creature of this part of the Himalayas that I have learned to adore so much in the last few years. Read more
How To Prepare for a trek, The Mental Endurance
How To Prepare for a trek, The Mental Endurance is the 1st part of the article. Please read Part 2 of the article titled To Prepare for a trek, The Physical Endurance.
To prepare for a trek, we need to strengthen our 2 prime M’s – Mind and Muscle, the body. Only then, the spending of the 3rd M – Money; a little or more, can bring to us an intense lifelong experience like trekking. Read more
Bali pass trek | Tons to Yamuna | A close look at Badarpoonch
Bali pass trek (4850 m.) goes through the mountainous ridge-line which divides the valleys of Ruinsara and Yamuna. It is also known as Yamunotri pass. This ridge-line works as the barrier between the catchment areas of Yamuna river and its main tributary Tons. Tons river is a combination of three main rivers Rupin, Har-ki-doon and Ruinsara. Interestingly, Tons carries more water than Yamuna itself.
Danphebir La | High circuit of Sikkim | hidden lakes and Kanchendzonga
Danphebir La is one unique region that hosts several pristine, large high altitude lakes and boasts one of the best views of Himalayas.
For over the years , Danphebir La trek has remained a route far less traversed by city trekkers. However, the route that runs through the upper Singali La ridge, is as pristine and wildly beautiful if not more, as some of the best high-altitude treks in the Himalayas.
How to walk on Chadar trek? the penguin style
One of the most common questions asked by a traveler prior the trek that -How to walk on Chadar trek ? Or what shoe should I use during the Chadar trek? What is penguin style? And much more.
One of the most unique and magnificent treks of the world, the Zanskar canyon trek, mostly known as Chadar Trek is hugely popular now. Chadar (literal meaning is Blanket in the Hindi language) signifies the frozen sheet of ice that is formed on the raging River Zanskar. Due to extreme cold and the less amount of direct sunlight as the river flows through a narrow gorge. Solid ice is formed best around the time frame, 2nd week of January to 2nd week of February – the time when the winter at it’s maximum.
Walking crampon or microspikes, a companion of winter trek
Flexible, or “hinged,” or walking crampon or micro spikes or anti-slip or ice gripper, many names to call the recently introduced ice gears of outdoor adventure sports. Flexible crampons are best for climbing snow and walking on glaciers. They are designed to flex with the boot, making walking more natural. If you plan on more hiking than technical climbing, flexible crampons will really shine. New age products are evolving more and almost developing a new category of ice traction gear for a more generic ice walk. Soon we may have to stop calling it crampon as it looses the technical seriousness.
Exploring Ruinsara Valley
Debsu bugiyal is a long day’s hike from Taluka. We were camping here on May 15th,2016 on our way down from Maldaru tal and were enjoying a day of rest. Osla village is only couple of hours away. We had sent Bahatturu Singh with a porter yesterday evening to procure some ration and fuel from the village. While we were enjoying the morning sun with a hot cup of tea and discussing about the views of Black peak-Ruinsara peak to the east (beyond Ruinsara valley) and Atta peak to the north( to HarkiDoon valley), the duo returned. We had breakfast together and after another round of sweet milk tea we started off.
Pilgrim on the mountain: Training for a 6000er
IThis post is a part of a three chapter series on my experience summiting Stok Kangri,6153m and Kang Yatse 6200m in two fortunate weeks of July in 2016. I’ve never been laconic with my blog posts but unless you’re hooked on to Pokemon Go, you should be alright.
Zero – Training for a 6000er. You are reading.
One – Stok Kangri
Two – Kang Yatse II
To the stray dogs who chased me in every night run and threatened to chew my legs off, to the pub hopping pillion on the motorbike who asked me to buck up while I was on another run…on a Friday night… 12 AM and to the guy at the pushcart who shared his day’s water with me without a thought on a hot sunny day in Hyderabad after a solid elevation gain bike ride.
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